Spring Break Part 2

Next on my journey was Kyushu!  I boarded the train with two of my traveling companions and we headed toward the city of Beppu located in Oita prefecture.  The area is famous for the geothermal activity there which has created an onsen mecca.  Beppu has a total of nine geothermal hotspots which create the many hot springs in the area and when one looks over the city it is covered with steam coming from the local onsen.

While there we entered several different onsens together, but perhaps the most memorable was the Beppu Onsen where one can enter into a natural mud bath.  It was quite the experience.  We were also sure to try the popular steam vent cooked eggs which could be found at any of the local hot springs.  The  sunny weather made for an enjoyable walk from onsen to onsen, however, the pleasant feature of hot springs is that even when the weather is cold, they make for a great destination, so be sure to make a trip to Beppu for a relaxing time.

From Beppu I boarded a train and headed to Hakata, in Fukuoka Prefecture.  Arriving at night the amount of time we spent in Fukuoka was limited, however, the area is famous for its ramen so we found a local street ramen stand, which are now quite rare, and decided to sit and eat.  The stand itself sat maybe a total of ten people and upon entering one could tell it was a local hotspot and the six others who were already eating there soon introduced themselves, all local businessmen.  The conversation started and before we knew it we were all laughing and taking pictures with the cook.  The atmosphere of the ramen stand was one that has remained unchanged for hundreds of years, it is a place where people come to talk, eat, and laugh late into the night.

From Hakata we headed to Hiroshima by train.  On the way we stopped at Iwakuni in Yamaguchi prefecture, in order to see the famous Kintai Bridge.  The bridge was first built in 1673 and serves crossing over the Nishiki River.  The bridge is famous for its unique style of five arching sections created using exquisite joint work and craftmanship.  High above the bridge Iwayuki Castle, built in 1601 by Kikkawa Hiroie, stands atop Mt. Yokoyama and overlooks the river valley.  After the construction of the castle was completed, bridges had continually been built and washed away by the river when it flooded.  As a result the unique design of the Kintai Bridge was developed and built in 1673 by the third lord of the area Kikkawa Horoyoshi.   It is supported by four stone pillars supporting the central sections and a wooden pier on each side connecting to the bank.  

The bridge, while thought to be indestructible by flood, was washed away the next year.  It was then rebuilt once more after redesigning the stone piers for strength and creating a tax that would support the maintenance of the bridge, consisting of a reconstruction of the sections on intervals of 20 and 40 years. Over the course of over 200 years its construction used only wood joints, mortise and tendon joints to be specific, and metal belts to hold the bridge sections together.  This maintenance continued until WWII.  

In 1950 a typhoon that struck the area washed the bridge away, despite efforts made by local citizens during the typhoon to protect the bridge from the rising water.  In 1951 the reconstruction of the bridge was started and follows the original design, however nails were used in order to increase the bridge's strength.  The structure was then restored in 2001 and 2004.  The bridge spans 175 meters and is approximately 5 meters in width.  It is an amazing sight to see and walking across it while viewing the beautiful surrounding mountains makes a trip here well worth while.

After arriving in Hiroshima we took a ferry to the island of Itsukushima, also known as Miyajima, where the famous Itsukushima Shrine appears to be floating in the water.  The shrine was first built in 593 and then rebuilt in 1168, it was named a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1996.  It is most famous for its red tori, or gate, that stands out in the water in front of the island shrine.  The island's natural state has been preserved as there are few towns that have been built on the island, aside from the private homes of local residents that live nearby the shrine.  The island is famous for its forests of maple trees and the vibrant colors of the changing leaves in the fall.  As the island is considered sacred residents work hard to preserve the nature surrounding the shrine, timber cutting is prohibited and while walking the shrine one can see deer roaming freely in the area.  The history itself of the island is incredible.  Perhaps a familiar story is that of the Battle of Miyajima, a historic illustration of military tactics.  The historic story of the battle can be read here: Battle of Miyajima.  For a detailed history, and more pictures of the shrine please visit the following link: Miyajima Information.

After spending the night in the city we got up and headed to the town of Matsuyama on the island of Shikoku.  Matsuyama is a town that has a variety of things to see, including the Matsuyama Castle and famous Dogo Onsen.  

Dogo Onsen is a popular tourist attraction for many Japanese as it is one of the oldest onsen in Japan.  The hot springs at Dogo have history of nearly 1000 years and includes visits from famous haiku poets.  The current building was built in 1894 and includes what a building called the Yushinden, built in 1899 that houses the bath for the Imperial family.  The town's quite atmosphere makes for a relaxing stay.  Wandering the nearby market one can see many guests dressed in their shikata coming from the onsen to buy some of the renown mikan, or madarin oranges, of the area.

The following day I headed toward Matsuyama Castle perched high above the town and surrounded by immense stone walls.  Matsuyama Castle was originally built in 1603 by Kato Yoshiaki and originally included 5 stories and 5 roofs.  However, in 1784 the main hall was struck by lightning and destroyed by the fire.  The castle's reconstruction began in 1820 and was finished in 1854.  The castle was damaged during World War II, and was repaired again.  The castle itself today is still an impressive sight to behold, standing on top of the hill over looking the surrounding city valley.  The castle's best view is seen from a bird's eye, so if you are interested in seeing the immense scale of the castle grounds check out the following link: Matsuyamajo Information.

On our way out to head to one more stop at the Sakamoto Ryoma Museum near Hirome we stopped to eat some sushi, and it is here is where I will end my account of my Spring Break journey.

Below is a photographed account of me eating, for my first time, "涙すし", that is teardrop sushi, or to be exact, a sushi roll compromised of nearly all wasabee.

It was an unforgettable trip filled with friends, new experiences, learning, and enough servings of wasabee for the rest of the year.   

ジェフより

Spring Break Part 1

It has been some time since I have updated my blog!  Time seems to be flying by.  I have just returned to AIU after finishing up my spring break traveling.  I spent the break visiting parts of Honshu, Kyushu, and Shikoku.  It was an adventure filled with historic sites, the relaxing onsens, and delicious food.

My journey started at the beginning of March when I boarded the night bus headed toward Tokyo.  Arriving in Tokyo for my second tour of the city I remembered well the scene at the station during the morning rush to work, and avoided the station until well after the business day had started.  I spent the next few days rushing about the city, visiting the various markets, taking pictures, meeting friends, and doing my best to look like a tourist.

Being a college student, it was, of course, a must to pay homage to the always affordable, easy to make, and ever-so tasty Cup of Ramen at the Ramen museum in Yokohama.  It was a special experience, unfortunately they emptied all of our thermos containing hot water and our dinner plans were spoiled.

Below are a few pictures of areas around Tokyo including the Tsukiji Market, the famous fish market of Tokyo, as well as some pictures of Shibuya, an area known for its energy, youth culture, and the central crosswalk where one can watch thousands of people cross the street in a hurried rush from above in the nearby Starbucks.

After spending time in Tokyo, I boarded another night bus and made way for the old capital, Kyoto.  Kyoto, as before, was an enchanting city filled with ancient history, epic legends, narrow streets, local shops, with the hum of the city life in the background.  I explored a few more of the local areas, famous landmarks and buildings and was again taken-in by Kyoto's unique and charming atmosphere.

Kiyomizu-dera was one of the favorite temple's I have visited.  It was an astounding monument to both architecture and design.  The temple dates back to 778 and the current structures that can be seen today were built in the Heian period in 1633.  The temple itself is an impressive sight to behold, yet perhaps the most impressive aspect is that the entire complex has been constructed without the use of a single nail.  The temple is named a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is a must see for anyone visiting Kyoto.  A popular expression "教水の舞台から飛び降りる勇気ある？" meaning, "Do you have the courage to jump from Kyomizu's stage?".

Within the temple complex there are several other shrines one of which is the Jinshu Shrine, dedicated to Okuninushi the god of love and good matches.  Within the shrine there are two love stones set 20 feet apart from each other, it is said that if one walks from one stone to the other with their eyes closed, they will find true love.  Fortunately people around the area of the stones stay clear of the lover's path and help him or her reach the stone successfully.

Below are some pictures of the entrance to Kyomizu-dera as well as some pictures within the temple complex.  However, if you would like to see a picture of the famous stage I encourage you to check out the following link: Kiyomizu-dera Information.

The entrance into the Jinshu Shrine, dedicated to Okuninushi the god of love and good matches.

Another stop on my adventure in Kyoto included Tenryu-ji, the Temple of the Heavenly Dragon.  It is located in the Sagano district of Kyoto and is the head temple of the Tenryu-ji branch of Rinzai Zen Buddhism.  It was established in 1339 and has been named a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  The landscape garden behind the Main Hall is one of the oldest in Japan and retains its original form as designed by Muso Soseki in the fourteenth century.

Some photos of Kyoto.

Kyoto as always was an enchanting city that makes any visitor want to stay longer than one's itinerary permits.  I will break here and add the second half of my journey in another entry, titled Spring Break Part 2, in order to keep the entry more concise.

Namahage, Skiing, and Sake!

Greetings from snow covered Akita!

These past few weekends I have ventured to the mountains of Akita for some great powder skiing, kamakura, and to see the legendary (and scary) Namahage.

The Namahage is a traditional ceremony that is unique to the Akita and Oga pennisula area.  Each year on New Year's Eve a ritual takes place in which young single men journey into the mountains where they are blessed and return as a Namahage, dressed in an outfit consisting of a straw waistband and coat, and a terrifying mask.  The Namahage then go from house to house where they perform the traditional folklore.  Roaring in a ferocious tone they march with their wooden knife and wooden pale in search of lazy and disobedient children, who if found, will be dragged to the mountains.

The Namahage travel in pairs when they visit houses in the community and there is always a person who accompanies the Namahage that initially checks the house to make sure that the home is able to receive the Namahage.  As long as the home is ready to accept the Namahage, the Namahage proceed to the house.   In the folklore tradition the Namahage proceed to enter the home.

When entering a home the Namahage slam open the sliding doors, at this point all children are terrifyied and hiding, and are greeted by the head of the house who offers the Namahage food and sake.  As the Namahage sit and speak with the owner of the house, they ask whether or not everyone has been working hard and acting as they should.  The head of the family assures them that this is the case and that everyone has worked hard.  The Namahage don't believe the head of the family and look in their notebook in which everything that happens in the village is written, they then notice the members of the family who are not present, and begin to question further, at times the Namahage may search the house roaring in their terrifying voices as they chase away any bad spirits and look for any lazy children.  The head of the family promises the Namahage that everyone will try much harder this year and pleads with them not to take anyone to the mountains.  The Namahage state that they believe in the sincerity of the request and will allow them to have a good year, and before leaving the house give the family a blessing for good heath, a rich crop, and large catch in the New Year.  The Namahage also teach the household head how to call them with three claps in the case that their children begin to misbehave.  This encourages the children to continue working and studying hard as well as gives everyone a reminder to work hard in the upcoming year.

The festival I attended is known as the Sedo Matsuri, it draws a close to the Namahage ritual.  It is located in Oga where we went to a mountain temple where we were able to see the young men dressed in the straw coat and waistband be blessed by the temple priest before putting the terrifying masks on and becoming the Namahage.  After putting the masks on the Namahage proceeded up the stair steps into the mountains where they would soon descend and dance around the fire as well as display the various masks from the different areas of Akita.  After the Namahage performed the folklore on stage and marched through the crowd, the festival draws to a close as they pass out mochi, a type of rice cake, to the crowd.  The festival location also has the Namahage museum where the various masks can be seen as well as more information about the festival and tradition.  Visitors can watch performances of the Namahage in a traditionally built house, where a narrator explains the story before the Namahage enter the house and banter with the narrator about the family and who has been working hard.  Visitors to the museum can also try the costume themselves.  I tried my best to look viciously fearsome, but people still took a few pictures.

Below are some pictures of the festival.  The first is my attempt at becoming a vicious Namahage.

I also recently had the chance to go skiing with some local Akita friends that I met at a soba making event last month.  While enjoying the soba we made paired with other local dishes we came to the topic of skiing.  As many of you know my enthusiasm for the subject is not limited and I was excited to hear that several of the members of the group had competed nationally in the sport.  Soon after hearing that I had not brought my skis or boots with me, the group immediately grabbed a pair of boots from a nearby house, and set to planning a ski date.

This past weekend Yuno and I took off to the mountains with our generous friends who let us join their ski club for the day.  Not only was it a great day of skiing, there was fresh light powder to be skied!  We even rode up the chair with two guys who had studied at the University of Utah and skied Alta!  It was the first time I've met someone that had visited my home state.  The day was filled with story filled lift-rides, powder shots, frozen faces, and most of all smiling faces.

After skiing we headed to a nearby Onnsen, hot spring, to relax and clean up before heading home.

Below are some pictures of a famous onnsen in the area.  The first picture also has a kamakura which is the traditional styled snow home of Akita.

Akita prefecture is famous for its sake throughout Japan.  As the area has especially clean water the excellent conditions for harvesting rice also make for the best sake.  A few weekends ago I was able to visit a local sake brewery and see how Akita's famous sake is brewed.  Yuno and her friends introduced me to the sake brewery master who took us on a tour of the facility.  Unlike wine, sake brewing takes a short amount of time, and generally can only be done in the cold months of winter.  Sake is made from a special type of rice that is grown specifically for the purpose of sake brewing and is harvested in the fall.  The process involves meticulous detail and everyday the sake master must calculate the appropriate temperatures to brew the sake as well as when to filter the sake, one day or degree can make or break an entire batch.  Below I have posted some pictures of the process.

I also recently volunteered at a local elementary school. Where we all played some games together before participating in a mochi-tsuki.  Mochi-tsuki is a traditional method of making mochi.  Polished rice which has been soaked overnight is cooked,  it is then placed in an usu, a large mortar made of wood or stone, and then pounded with a large wooden mallet called a kine.  Two people work together, as one person is needed to knead and move the rice back into the center of the bowl between the blows of the heavy wooden mallet.  As one can imagine the job of lifting the heavy mallet may be tiring, but the one on the heavy end of the ki-ne gets the difficult job as the rice is literally steaming hot and the heavy mallet is not easy on the hands.  As the two making the mochi work in unison, those around may cheer the mochi makers on shouting よいしょ　(Yoisho).  After the mochi is made toppings may be put on such as sweet red beans, kinako, or it may also be eaten as it is and is quite tasty.

Yuno and I helped out a few of the kids with the process!

Stay warm this winter! And if you have a lot of snow you can always work on your kamakura building skills :)

ジェフより